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Chilli and apple jam

I've been making variations of this jam for many years now. Because the chillies do not have a high pectin content the jam is often difficult to set. For many years I struggled with the setting point but I was given some crab apples by a friend and knowing that they have a relatively high pectin content thought it would be good to give them a go in the jam. It certainly helped with the setting and also the flavour too. This jam goes really well with cheeses and makes a great base for chilli dips to accompany spring rolls or Thai fish cakes. 

350g red chillies
350g crab apples or bramley (peeled and cored) 
300ml cider vinegar
700g jam sugar
Juice of 1 lemon

To help set if not using jam sugar 50g powdered pectin 

This makes about five 200g jars of jam

Remove the stalks from the chillies, you can remove the seeds if you like, I prefer a bit of heat, so I leave them in
Place the chillies and the apples in a food processor and pulse until you have a very rough paste, you do not want a smooth paste
Place in a heavy bottomed pan with the vinegar and sugar and on a high heat bring to the boil
Allow to boil until such time as it has reached 105c which is setting point

You can also check the setting point using a plate which has been left in the freezer for about 10 minutes;
Pour a small amount of jam onto the plate and check to see if you can push the jam across the plate and that it wrinkles and does not flood back to where it was


Ensure your jars are clean and both the jars and the lids have been sterilised using hot water or a hot cycle in your dishwasher
Allow the jam to cool slightly and ensure the jars are warm while filling otherwise they may crack
Place the lids on immediately and store in a cool dry place until you wish to use it
The jam will keep for up to a year in a cupboard
Once opened the jam will keep for up to six months in the fridge

Butternut squash risotto

This risotto has comfort food written all over it, great for these autumn months when the weather is turning and we need a tasty and colourful pick me up. Naturally squash is at it's best this time of year, I like to use butternut squash as it has a lovely sweetness to it.

250g risotto rice (my preference is arborio)
70g parmesan grated
130g pre roasted butternet squash (150c fan oven, 160c, normal oven for one hour), skin removed and finely chopped
20g unsalted butter
2 shallots finely chopped
2 cloves garlic finely chopped
750ml chicken or veg stock
Salt and pepper to season
10ml oil for frying
100ml vermouth

In one pan keep the stock on a low heat as you will need it warm when you add it to the risotto
In another medium sized pan on a low heat fry off the shallots and garlic until soft
Add the squash to the pan and turn up the heat to medium and cook for a further 5 mins
Turn the heat up high and add the vermouth, after 1 minute turn the heat down to a medium heat
Add the rice to the pan and stir to coat in the residual liquid
Start to add the stock a ladleful at a time and keep stirring until the rice has absorbed each ladle before adding another
After 15 mins, take some of the rice and test for doneness, it should be soft with a little bite but not too much and not leave a chalky sensation in your mouth
If it is still a little chalky or too al dente, then continue to cook until you get the right texture
You may not need to use all the stock
Turn the heat down and add the parmesan and butter, stirring through for another couple of minutes
Season and serve

For those making this with the Magimix CookExpert 
Add the garlic, oil and shallots and run the Expert programme speed 12 for 20 seconds
If needed scrape the mixture and ensure it is in the centre of the bowl
Add the squash and switch to speed 2A at 100c for 10 minutes
Next add the rice and switch the speed to 4 for 2 minutes at 100c
Add the vermouth and continue cooking for a further minute
Then add 650ml of the stock and continue to cook at speed 2A, 100c for a further 15 minutes
After the 15 minutes has elapsed check the thickness of the risotto and if it is too thick add about 70ml more stock via the small lid
Next add the butter, parmesan and thyme via the small lid and continue cooking for a further 5 minutes
Stop the programme and season with salt and pepper, restart for 30 seconds to mix and then serve

Goat shin carnitas

This isn't the first time that carnitas have featured on Kitchen Exile. Last time I focused on punchy flavours recreating an almost chorizo like flavour. This time I'm looking at more subtle earthy flavours that accentuate the goat meat. This dish can be slow cooked on the stovetop or in the oven but my preferred method is sous vide and slow cooking in a water bath.

70g duck fat (use solid fat if you can, makes it easier to vacuum pack)
10 sprigs fresh oregano
15g smoked paprika
4 cloves garlic peeled and crushed with the side of a knife
1 large bay leaf
10g cumin seeds
5g sea salt flakes
2g freshly ground black pepper
500g goat shin removed from the bone and kept whole

Sous vide method
Rub the shin with the smoked paprika and cumin seeds and season with the salt and pepper
Place the shin in the sous vide bag and add the oregano, bay leaf, garlic and duck fat
Seal the bag and place in a water bath at 82c for 7 hours
Once the shin is cooked, you can either place it in the fridge where it will keep for up to a week or crisp it up in a pan
Simply remove the shin and shred with a fork, pour out the fat into a pan and on a high heat fry the shin for 2 minutes to crisp it up
Serve with salsa, sour cream and cheese on a soft tortilla

To cook on a stove top or in the oven
All ingredients as above except you will need 300g of duck fat
Rub the shin with the smoked paprika and cumin seeds and season with the salt and pepper
Place the duck fat in a saucepan or heavy based casserole pot and on a medium heat melt the fat
Lower the heat and add the shin, oregano, bay leaf and garlic and cook for 4 hours on a very low heat, do not allow it to get above 82c
If cooking in the oven set the oven to 80c normal, if you have a fan oven then use the normal oven setting

Stuffed shoulder of goat with saffron potatoes

Goat is well suited to Persian style dishes. I decided rather than make a koresh or tagine, to stuff the goat shoulder with the spices and fruits you'd find in a koresh and slow roast it instead. The quinces sweeten quite nicely during the cooking process and it's something a little different to the usual stuffed leg or shoulder of lamb.

1 kg shoulder of goat, boned out, ask your butcher to do this
200ml lamb or chicken stock
Butchers twine 
50ml oil

Stuffing mix
2 cloves garlic grated
10g grated ginger
100g quince grated
50g grated onion
5 strands saffron
50g roasted unsalted pistachios finely chopped
5g ground cinnamon
5g ground cumin
Salt and pepper

Mix all the stuffing ingredients together, season with salt and pepper and rub all over the inside of the shoulder
Roll up and tie with butchers twine to hold it together

Rub the outside with the oil and season with salt and pepper
Place in a roasting dish with the stock and cover with tin foil
Place in the oven (140c fan, 150c normal) or BBQ set up for indirect cooking (150c) for 2 hours
Take the foil off and cook for another hour
Allow to rest in a warm place for about 15 minutes before serving
You can use the roasting liquid as gravy, just place in a pan and reduce by half to thicken slightly

Saffron Potatoes
4 potatoes peeled and thinly sliced about 2ml thick
100ml chicken stock and 5 strands saffron
Salt and pepper

Mix the stock and the saffron together in a small dish 
Layer the potatoes in a small baking dish and season each layer with the salt and pepper
Pour over the stock and saffron mix and place in an oven (140c fan, 150c normal) or BBQ set up for indirect cooking (150c) for 1 hour
You can test for doneness by piercing with a knife, if it goes through easily they are done







My Cookbooks - Nose to Tail by Fergus Henderson

If you are a true appreciator of food and a fan of nose to tail then this iconic tome is one you should have in your cookbook library. Fergus Henderson is the proprietor of St John restaurants in London which specialise in Nose to Tail and down to earth seasonal ingredients.
 It is also another of my favourite restaurants in London. Their Bread and Wine restaurant was just around the corner from where I used to work in London, it used to be my Monday evening treat to go there. I always had to finish my meal with some freshly baked madeleines accompanied by a glass of Madeira, or if I was too full take some home and have them for breakfast the next morning.

The second book in the complete nose to tail is a collection of all the books (Nose to Tail and Beyond Nose to Tail) in the St John library, and is written in collaboration with Justin Gellatly who is a former baker with St John and now runs the Bread Ahead bakery in London.

What I love most is the simplicity of how each recipe is detailed, so matter of fact, there are no presumptions. So you would guess from the titles that it includes many recipes that include the whole beast, there is no waste in this book where the animal is concerned. The recipes themselves are a celebration, simply outlined, no complications other than some of the recipes requiring more time than others. It's not all meat in the book there are many fish dishes,  vegetable side dishes and desserts too, one of my favourites is the madeleines recipe which is in the complete nose to tail.
The iconic roast marrowbone with parsley salad dish

Many cookbooks tend to ignore the main ingredient and dress up a dish in a manner that detracts, this book does not. Often simplicity can be more of a celebration of an ingredient showcasing the animal or dessert and encouraging the reader to enjoy.



I was very lucky to meet Fergus himself in 2017 at a lunch in Rijks in Amsterdam, he certainly lived up to expectations.


Goat bhuna

This is one of my favourite curry house dishes typically made with lamb but I've made an exception for Goatober, the goat meat works really well with this dish. While Bhuna may be the curry house name of the dish, it is actually the name of the cooking technique. It is a method of frying the whole spices in oil to bring out the flavour and then adding the meat, letting it cook in its own juices. It is a drier curry in comparison to masala style that most of you are familiar with.
I'd like to thank Monique van den Broek aka Mevrouw de Bok for the meat for my goat recipes this month. Monique is involved with Boeren van Nederlands and like myself is keen to promote goat meat here in the Netherlands. She travels the Netherlands with her goat Thijs de Ambassadeur speaking at events. 

Whole spices
1 black cardamon pod
3 green cardamon pods
4 cloves
1 blade of mace
1 bay leaf

Ground spices
10g cumin
5g coriander
5g turmeric
10g mild chilli powder
10g garam masala

3 large onions peeled and chopped
4 cloves of garlic grated
30g ginger grated
3 tomatoes roughly chopped
2 - 4 green chillies sliced (or more if you like it really hot)
30ml oil or ghee for cooking
1kg goat shoulder or leg, diced into 1 inch cubes
Salt and pepper to taste
Coriander leaves for garnish

First fry off the whole spices in the oil on a medium heat for 5 minutes to release the aromatics
Add the onions and lower the heat, cook the onions until soft and glossy, this takes about 10-15 minutes
Next add the coriander, cumin, chilli powder, turmeric, garlic and ginger and stir through, cook for a further 5 minutes
Add the goat and tomatoes, place a lid on the pan, lower the heat and cook for 3 hours stirring every so often to ensure it doesn't burn on the bottom
You can also cook this in the oven (130c fan, 140c normal) or BBQ (150c indirect).  
If the mixture is getting too dry, just add a small amount of water
Half an hour before the end of the cooking time add the garam masala and stir through
You need the meat to be tender but not falling apart, so do check the meat at regular intervals after 2 hours of cooking to see if it is starting to give
When finished, season with the salt and pepper
I like to serve this with steamed rice and chapatis




Korean Style goat burger with kimchi

I like my burgers with a bit of a spicy punch. With Goatober in full swing I thought it would be nice to add a goat burger to my repertoire, it's also a good introduction to the meat if you're not so sure about what the meat tastes like. 


Burger mix
500g goat mince 80% meat to 20% fat mix
30g finely grated ginger
30g finely grated garlic
30g finely chopped spring onion
15ml soy sauce
10ml sesame oil
10g  chilli powder


Fry off the ginger, spring onion and garlic in the sesame oil on a very low heat for 5-7 mins, do not allow to brown
Place to one side to cool and drain off any excess oil
Add the cooled garlic, spring onion and ginger to the mince along with the soy sauce and chilli powder, mix well to combine
Place in the fridge for 4 hours to allow the flavours to infuse
After the 4 hours has elapsed form the burger patties, up to you what size you'd like 
Place the burgers back in the fridge to firm up
I like to cook the burgers on the bbq direct heat.

Kimchi

Normally Kimchi is made several weeks in advance and then left to ferment to develop its flavour. You can make this a few days in advance. The flavours will be quite fresh with a little less of the zing that comes with fermentation.

200g Chinese cabbage, main thick stalk removed and roughly sliced
45g table salt
1 litre water
4 cloves garlic finely grated
50g ginger finely grated
70ml rice wine vinegar
50g caster sugar
10ml sesame oil
10ml fish sauce
50g korean chilli paste
4 spring onions finely chopped
50g carrot sliced into very thin strips


Place the cabbage leaves in a bowl with the water and salt and allow to soak for 3 hours
After the 3 hours have elapsed, remove the leaves and rinse off the excess salt
Mix together the garlic, ginger, sesame oil, chilli paste, sugar and fish sauce, stir well to combine
Place the cabbage, spring onion and carrot in a bowl and coat with the paste
Transfer to a clean airtight container or sterilised jar with the lid on and place in the fridge for 3 days
You can also leave this mix for up to one month before using

Assemble the burger in a bun topped with mayonnaise, cheddar and kimchi.