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Korean Style goat burger with kimchi

I like my burgers with a bit of a spicy punch. With Goatober in full swing I thought it would be nice to add a goat burger to my repertoire, it's also a good introduction to the meat if you're not so sure about what the meat tastes like. 

Burger mix
500g goat mince 80% meat to 20% fat mix
30g finely grated ginger
30g finely grated garlic
30g finely chopped spring onion
15ml soy sauce
10ml sesame oil
10g  chilli powder

Fry off the ginger, spring onion and garlic in the sesame oil on a very low heat for 5-7 mins, do not allow to brown
Place to one side to cool and drain off any excess oil
Add the cooled garlic, spring onion and ginger to the mince along with the soy sauce and chilli powder, mix well to combine
Place in the fridge for 4 hours to allow the flavours to infuse
After the 4 hours has elapsed form the burger patties, up to you what size you'd like 
Place the burgers back in the fridge to firm up
I like to cook the burgers on the bbq direct heat.


Normally Kimchi is made several weeks in advance and then left to ferment to develop its flavour. You can make this a few days in advance. The flavours will be quite fresh with a little less of the zing that comes with fermentation.

200g Chinese cabbage, main thick stalk removed and roughly sliced
45g table salt
1 litre water
4 cloves garlic finely grated
50g ginger finely grated
70ml rice wine vinegar
50g caster sugar
10ml sesame oil
10ml fish sauce
50g korean chilli paste
4 spring onions finely chopped
50g carrot sliced into very thin strips

Place the cabbage leaves in a bowl with the water and salt and allow to soak for 3 hours
After the 3 hours have elapsed, remove the leaves and rinse off the excess salt
Mix together the garlic, ginger, sesame oil, chilli paste, sugar and fish sauce, stir well to combine
Place the cabbage, spring onion and carrot in a bowl and coat with the paste
Transfer to a clean airtight container or sterilised jar with the lid on and place in the fridge for 3 days
You can also leave this mix for up to one month before using

Assemble the burger in a bun topped with mayonnaise, cheddar and kimchi. 

Goatober competition - win a signed copy of Geit, berieden en eten by James Whetlor

As many of you may know I'm a keen supporter of Goatober here in the Netherlands. Goatober began over a decade ago in the US and has since gained ground here in the Netherlands in the last 2 years. Thanks to organisations such as Meat the Male who are working with Dutch agricultural organisations, farmers and chefs to promote goat meat here in the Netherlands.
Goat is a very underestimated meat, it has a wonderful flavour and is very versatile. A lot of bock meat goes to waste on an annual basis as it's not popular. With the recent surge in popularity of goat dairy, the demand is high for female goats. As a result the male goats are euthanised at birth as there is no demand for their meat. If the demand increases, then the male goats stay in the system rather than go to waste.

So what does the competition involve? 
I'd like you, my Dutch readers to get your goat on this October and send me in your goat recipes. 

Your entry must include your goat recipe and a picture of the dish or a picture of you with the dish.
At the end of the month I will pick a winner and the winning recipe will be published here on Kitchen Exile.
The winner will also receive a signed copy of Geit - Bereiden en Eten by James Whetlor.
It was published earlier this year in English and is now available in Dutch. Here is my review of the book
Recipes must be sent in to kitchenexile@gmail.com before Monday the 29th of October
The winner will be announced on the 31st and recipe published online.

So where can you buy goat and get involved? A list of sellers here in the Netherlands can be found via the link here on Meat the Male

Competition is open only to residents of the Netherlands. 

Smoked salmon tortellini with a vermouth and star anise sauce

I love making my own pasta, especially filled pasta such as ravioli and tortellini. It can be time consuming but if you have some spare time its nice to give these a try. I had some excess smoked salmon as a friend kindly brought a rather large portion over from Ireland so thought it would make a nice change from the usual cheese, ham or mushroom fillings.

Makes about 24 tortellini

200g tipo '00' pasta flour
2 eggs

Whizz the flour and eggs together until they form a dough
Wrap in cling film and place in the fridge for an hour to rest

150g mascarpone or cream cheese
150g smoked salmon finely chopped
Zest and juice of half a lemon
70g grana padano cheese grated
Salt and finely ground pepper to taste

Mix all ingredients together until well combined, ensure you taste it to make sure there is enough seasoning

To make the tortellini
Roll out the pasta into flat sheets until you can just about see your hands through it (setting 6 on kitchen aid roller, setting 5 imperia)
With a 9cm diameter round pastry cutter, cut the pasta into rounds

Remove the excess pastry and place to one side
In the middle of each round place a 5g teaspoonful of filling

Wet the sides of the pasta round and then fold over in half until the sides meet, take care to remove all air bubbles

Wet the corners and then fold into the middle and press together to form a join

Repeat until you have used up all the filling

50ml creme fraiche
50ml dry vermouth
50ml fish stock
5g butter
Quarter piece star anise
1 bay leaf
5ml lemon juice
Salt and pepper to taste

Place the vermouth, bay leaf, star anise and stock in a pan
Bring to the boil for 1 minute
Bring down to a simmer, add the creme fraiche and stir through
Add the butter and lemon juice, stir until the butter melts
Season with salt and pepper
Remove the bay leaf and star anise before serving

To cook the tortellini
Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil
Place in the tortellini and cook for 3 minutes

Place the pasta in a bowl and pour over the sauce

Label rouge Poultry

I've been using Label Rouge poultry for a few years now, I became familiar with the brand as one of the butchers I frequent has them in stock. So while I am a big supporter of local produce, it is difficult when you move to a new country to work out what products are the best quality. So when you do find something that may not necessarily tick the local box, but ticks the box on traceability, quality, consistency and flavour, it solves a lot of problems in the kitchen.

I do like to know exactly where my food comes from and so it's always good to get a chance to meet the farmers behind the product. Last week I was invited by Label Rouge and Melman communications to join journalists from Vlees+ and VoedingNU to visit farmers and butchers in Lyon and the surrounding Auvergne region in France.

World champion butcher Didier Massot and recipient of the Meilleur Ouvrier de France

So what exactly is Label Rouge and what does it mean? Label Rouge was set up in 1960 as a backlash to the mass production in poultry farming after the second world war. A syndicate of farmers wished to improve the conditions of the animals and also provide a support network for quality farming. It covers every aspect from hatching to slaughter and delivery.  It was also a way of stepping back to traditional free range farming methods but ensuring similar quality with all participating farmers. The birds are kept safely indoors overnight and get to roam freely during the day, they also have plenty of space within the coop and also outdoors.
Chickens seeking the shade at the farm of Romaine Guillaume

The coop at Nicolas Picard's farm in Auvergne

Plenty of space to roam

The guidelines from Label Rouge cover the types of bird being farmed (slow growing breeds only), the feed (high quality locally grown grains), the number of animals per metre squared (11 chickens) and no chemicals are used in the feeds. They do not encourage fast growing breeds or growth stimulants, the aim is for a happy, healthy, tasty bird. The birds are slaughtered at a minimum of 81 days which is almost twice what other companies dictate and can also be left to grow for longer.
Yellow foot breed, they have a distinguishing bald neck which keeps them cool

What does it mean for the farmers involved? They see it as a support network, and are proud to adhere to the stringent guidelines laid down by Label Rouge. There are independent ad hoc checks on a regular basis to ensure guidelines are being followed. The farmers are proud knowing they are part of a quality industry, not just in animal welfare but producing a tasty animal too. When visiting the farms it was clear to see that the farmers really cared for the animals, the birds were healthy looking and the coops clean with plenty of space for them to roam outdoors too. At every stage of production there are inspections and lots of paperwork for the farmers to fill in to ensure there is complete traceability. On the label for the end product you can see where the animal was farmed, how it was raised, where it was slaughtered. This is available to the end consumer.
Farmer Nicolas Picard

So what does this mean for the end consumer or chef ? Label Rouge is seen as a mark of quality in France. When visiting a supermarket butcher a customer overheard us speaking in English about the brand and remarked ''it's the best!''. French butchers want to be associated with quality so they will ensure they have label rouge birds in stock for their customers. It's a well known brand associated with being the best, so customers specifically ask for it. Here in the Netherlands it is gaining ground with high end butchers who are aiming for quality products. Very few brands offer complete end to end traceability and a guarantee that the bird will have a superior flavour.

When you see the Label Rouge chicken in the butchers here in the Netherlands, there are three breeds. Black foot, white foot and yellow foot. The birds will vary in flavour, the yellow foot is more tender and has a higher fat content than the others. The black foot, has a gamier flavour and the white foot a lighter flavour.
In France they are sold with the head and feet intact, but having spoken to my butcher Johan van Uden from Chateaubriand in Heemstede here in the Netherlands he said that they presented the bird in a more "oven ready manner" as people were often put off by traditional presentation. Speaking with the chefs in France, they said that the Label Rouge brand was one of the few that could guarantee flavour as well as quality and that is why the birds featured on their menu.

So how does Label Rouge compare with Beter Leven chickens? Label Rouge has a close comparison with 3 star Beter Leven level.
Beter Leven also has slow growing breeds, but slaughter the birds at 71 days in comparison with 81 for Label Rouge.
Chickens number 10 per metre squared in comparison with 11 for Label Rouge. Both Label Rouge and (organic) Beter Leven chickens have access to outdoors.  Although Label Rouge isn't exclusively organic, they do have the same stringent applications as Beter Leven free range animals.
Label Rouge here in the Netherlands also imports guinea fowl and duck as well as chicken. In France they also have beef, lamb pork, shrimp and herring as well as flour.

Brown shrimp croquettes/Garnalen kroketten

In the UK and Ireland these delicious brown shrimp are impossible to come by and when you do, very expensive. Luckily they are very easy to come by here in the Netherlands and not so expensive. Hollandse Garnalen or Dutch brown shrimp are native to these waters and a favourite chez kitchen exile. I often make potted shrimp with these but on rare occasions make croquettes or kroketten as they are known in Dutch.

Makes about 12 croquettes
200g brown shrimp
2g sweet paprika
60g plain flour
50g butter
290ml fish stock
2 shallots finely chopped
10 ml oil for frying the shallots
salt and pepper

Croquette coating
200g panko breadcrumbs
1 egg beaten
100g plain flour
2l - 4l oil for frying (dependent on how large your pan or deep fryer is)

Croquette filling
Fry off the shallots on a low heat for 10 minutes until soft and glossy, place to one side 
Melt the butter, add the flour and paprika and stir to combine with a whisk
Cook for another 2-3 minutes whisking all the time
On a medium heat start to add the fish stock, it will clump up briefly and then thin out a little when all the liquid has been added
Keep whisking on a low heat until the mixture starts to thicken, at this point add the shrimp and shallots and continue whisking until it gets very thick, you need a very stiff mixture for this recipe
Season with salt and pepper and then pour into a deep dish baking tray and allow to cool
Place in the fridge for a couple of hours to firm up further

To coat the croquettes
Take three plates, on one place the flour, on another the egg and another the breadcrumbs
Slice off a three inch long by one inch wide piece of croquette mix and roll in your hands until it forms a cylindrical shape
Roll first in the flour, then the egg and finally in the bread crumb mix ensuring it is well covered
Place to one side on a baking tray and repeat for the rest of the croquette mixture
Place in the fridge for a couple of hours to firm up again

To cook the croquettes
Pour the oil into a pan or deep fryer and heat until the oil reaches 180c
Place the croquettes in gently, taking care not to overcrowd the pan and cook for 8-10 minutes until golden brown in colour

Roast beet with apple, lemon pickled onions and grilled goat cheese

Beetroot and apple pair well together and also work well with sharp cheeses such as goat. I also like to add some pickled red onions which lift the dish. With the recent spell of hot weather and the fact so many tasty vegetables are available this time of year salad seems a good option. This will also work well with raw beetroot but I like to slow roast it on the BBQ which intensifies the flavour.
Serves 2

1 apple cored and thinly sliced (elstar, jazz or pink lady work well for this recipe)
1 medium sized roasted beetroot (or raw if you prefer) peeled and thinly sliced
150g small goats cheese log
1 small red onion peeled and thinly sliced
juice of one lemon
200g rocket leaves

50ml extra virgin olive oil
25ml cider vinegar
10ml dijon mustard

Place all dressing ingredients in a small jar, place the lid on and shake

Place the red onion and lemon juice in a bowl and mix together
Set to one side for one hour to marinate

Goats cheese
Slice the log into 1cm slices and place under a hot grill for 3-4 minutes to char on one side

Place the rocket leaves as your base and layer with the apple, beetroot and onion
Place the goats cheese on top
Drizzle over the dressing

Fig and gorgonzola focaccia

Figs and blue cheese are a great combination. I like to make focaccia style breads as they only require one prove, so no waiting around for a second prove before you put it on to bake. I also love the flavour and texture of the bread. This bread pairs really well with sliced parma ham and a drizzle of olive oil and balsamic.

450g strong white bread flour or '00' flour
7g instant yeast
5g salt
300ml water
100g gorgonzola dolce chopped into small cubes
4 figs finely chopped

Add the flour, salt and yeast into a bowl
Mix together to combine and add the water to form a wet dough
Knead for 5 minutes until the dough becomes smooth
Flatten the dough and sprinkle in the figs and cheese, fold the dough over a few times to incorporate the fruit and cheese
Place in a deep baking tray and cover with oiled cling film and place in a warm place until the dough has risen to twice its volume (roughly 30-40 mins)
Remove the cling film and place in an oven at 190c (fan) 200c (normal) and bake for 40 minutes. 
Take the bread out of the tray and place back in the oven for another 10-15 minutes
Remove from the oven and allow to cool
If cooking on the BBQ use indirect heat, 200c (400f) or in a Kamado style BBQ use the plate setter with pizza stone on the griddle for 40 minutes
Tip: You can check if the bread is done by tapping the bottom and if it makes a hollow sound it is done